already reached the dizzy heights of being the biggest cider competition
in the world, and we are thrilled to support it. The British Cider
Championships is one of the highlights of the Royal Bath & West Show, and a fantastic mega-phone for the cider industry both home and abroad.
traditional, farmhouse, organic, bottle-fermented, bottle-conditioned
or “fruity”, the Championships covers them all, alongside classes for
perry and apple juice. There are 16 gold, silver and bronze awards to
win in addition to the ultimate ‘Supreme British Champion Cider’ cup and
cider industry isn’t just about fantastic ciders, it is as the National
Association of Cider Makers says, “a great British success story”.
Supporting rural communities and economies, employing 10,900 people
(both directly and indirectly), and playing a vital role in the
preservation of our orchards, its contribution should be celebrated.
[Click here for the NACM’s infographic.]
wouldn’t want to shout about being an award winner of such a national
award and being part of our cider industry? It seems a silly question
but in my experience cider makers are really quite a modest bunch. They
are skilled craftspeople who balance the responsibility of keeping our
nation’s cider making heritage live and kicking, while developing their
own unique and diverse brands and blends. They work hard and, quite
frankly, they just get their heads down and get on with it! While
chuffed to bits to be winners, not all will have the time, resources or
budget to blow the trumpets. So, this blog post is for them in
particular, and indeed all the winners and entrants of the British Cider
These are really exciting times for the UK drink industry and it’s the artisans we have to thank.
There was a time not too many years ago when the word “artisan” in the food industry almost became a victim of its own success in the UK and America, through its over-use. Timothy Egan,
in The New York Times (2013), voted ‘artisan’ as the “most annoying”
word, calling for its retirement; not surprisingly, it had been hijacked
by “all the wrong people selling all the wrong products”. I have to
confess to cringing on a few occasions in the noughties here in the UK
because I felt the word was batted about too often and this seemed to
devalue it somehow. Around the same time, the food and drink magazine
‘Artisan’ changed its name to Fine Food Digest, which I found interesting. The dust has settled a little now since those contentious times, thank goodness.
In all though, the etymology of the word is irrelevant to me, because my focus is on the artisans (in this case, drink producers) themselves who have had the courage to turn their passion for their product into a way of life, whether a craft cider, beer, spirit or wine.
those of us who are lucky enough to taste the difference and hear the
artisan’s story, this heady amalgamation of sensory experience is hard
to resist. It’s not solely about the product and its taste, it’s about
the whole “package” (and I don’t mean the packaging). The word consumption doesn’t apply here because the product is not a resource, it is
special. We have searched for, and discovered, it. We want to connect
with it in some way— to understand something of its ‘roots’, its
evolution and its maker/s; and to value it for its uniqueness. Though it
may be too nice to share, this won’t stop us from telling our friends
and followers all about it.
Our thirst for artisan
drink is something even the big supermarkets are having to respond to,
as Simon Cairns, the Head Drinks Buyer of the Co-operative Group
“People are … really engaged. They’re looking for products which are more distinctive, more interesting. We’re seeing this trend in terms of products which have more provenance or have an artisan background and that’s great for us [UK drinks industry] as an industry … and more exciting for us.” (BBC Breakfast 20/12/2016)
So, who are these artisans? Well, let me introduce you to one I met recently …
journey began in Tuscany on a study tour about adding value to produce.
She had just quit her job as a Technical Assistant in Agriculture
because being in an office stifled her. On the tour Polly got interested
in traditional orchards through chatting to a tour-member from
Herefordshire. On her return to the UK, she became interested in The People’s Trust for Endangered Species
(PTES) who recognise what wildlife havens traditional orchards are.
PTES report that we have lost 90% of traditional orchards since the
1950s, but what Polly discovered in her local area inspired her.
were lots of amazing old orchards close to me,” she says. “I started
researching the different apple varieties and this is really important
for genetic variation – something I became interested in through my
postgraduate studies. It is about not letting the old trees die out.”
orchard surveys PTES have assessed to date, 46% of traditional orchards
in England are in poor condition. This is something Polly observed
first-hand and she believes it is probably a symptom of the perception
that there is no way of making them economically viable.
With her passion for sustainable agriculture, her love of being outside in orchards and a desire to do something fun, Polly started to research ways of utilising apples from traditional orchards around her and preserving these special habitats. She approached the owners of four orchards nearby and offered to maintain their orchards in return for their apples, and so began ‘Find & Foster’.
Rather than making traditional cider, it was the naturally sweet sparkling cider known as keeved cider which really sparked Polly’s enthusiasm.
cider is perceived as a difficult process, so much so that one cider
guru advised Polly to abandon the idea. The process is very reliant on
late reason fully ripened apples with certain characteristics, low and
sustained temperatures, and very slow fermentation. The outcome is
either success or failure, but Polly was undeterred and unfazed, having
done the research and through utilising her agri-science background and
chemistry knowledge. She knew she was working with the right apples.
kind of apples you find in old Devon orchards,” she explains, “are the
exact apples you need for keeved cider. They are interesting varieties,
with no chemicals near them [traditional orchards aren’t sprayed with fertilisers or pesticides] so they are nicer quality, and their low nutrients [due to no fertiliser being used] make them ideal for the slow fermentation which keeving requires.”
Polly is really pleased with the results. She describes her keeved cider as,
apply and sweet because it retains all the natural apple sugars. It’s
also gives really complex flavours of yeasty earthiness because you have
to use wild yeasts.”
aren’t a collective to Polly. It is as if each one is a wonder of
nature to her. She handles them great care and is keen to explain their
unique traits. She loves the pineapple taste of one particular variety
and goes on to explain all about aromatic compounds.
The fact that some apples are as yet unidentified in terms of variety
doesn’t deter her as she knows whether they are suitable for keeved
cider through their taste, aroma, sugar and acidity.
main challenge for Polly will be the word ‘keeved’ itself, which means
little, if nothing at all, to most consumers. She wants keeved cider to
catch on in the same way that pét-nat (pétillant
naturel, described by Swig artisan wine importers as ‘Champagne’s
cool-kid, naughty sister’) wine is. Pét-nat has a small but devoted
fan-base and can be served by the glass in select wine bars in London.
Polly and her friends love it because each bottle is totally
unpredictable. It is bottled while still fermenting, which keeved cider
can also be.
fun,” she says, “when you open a bottle you don’t know what to expect.
You don’t know how fizzy it is going to be or how long fermentation took
in the bottle.”
Polly is a minority, as there are very few cider producers in the UK making keeved cider. Somerset’s Pilton Cider, Worley’s Cider, and Gregg’s Pit Cider & Perry
are three good examples. Keeved cider is rarely given media attention
probably because of its scarcity, although many months ago it was great
to hear Pilton’s keeved cider getting a glowing mention by food
journalist Nigel Barden on Simon Mayo’s Drive time on BBC2.
we watch this space with keen interest and are routing for Polly and
all the artisans who are making a very distinctive impression on the UK
for us, the consumers, whatever we are craving, whether aspiration,
inspiration or sensory perfection, we are thirsty for more of these
artisan drinks. True, we don’t really see the hard graft and sleepless
nights of artisans, but maybe that doesn’t really matter though, because
we get to taste the best bits and join the journey!
has sold out of all of her 2015 keeved cider through farmers markets
and apple days, however, Polly’s 2016 keeved cider will be released in
Autumn 2017. You can follow Find & Foster Fine Ciders on Twitter and Instagram
If you are an artisan cider maker who makes and sells keeved cider in the UK, please let me know and I will mention you in this post. [Our keeving kit stocks will be topped up ready for the 2017 apple harvest.]
volume sales of craft beer in the UK up 43.6% and the growing desire of
consumers to purchase an all-round ‘experience’ rather than just a drink, it is little surprise that cans are now being utilised by craft breweries in the UK to help meet these demands.
Cans are within the top 4 trends of the UK beer and cider market according to a recent presentation by CGA Strategy.
Cans aren’t just being embraced by craft breweries because they protect
beer from light and oxygen, retain fresh hop flavours, and are highly
portable; they offer good marketing opportunities too, as emphasised by
Martin Constable, Chairman of the information service CanMakers:
“Canned beer … allows for cool and exciting packaging, such striking imagery opens the love of beer up to a wider audience …. Consumers are falling in love with the look, feel and taste of canned beer.”
is, however, another very plausible reason why canning is on the
increase amongst UK craft breweries. The canning equipment which was
once unattainable to them is now within their reach:
“In recent years, breweries that wanted to can had to commit to eye-watering order volumes with major manufactures or be fortunate enough to be able to invest in their own canning lines. Most of these in-between were left to look longingly at their US brethren, ably canning their beers with enviable ease. But as breweries in the UK and Ireland continue to flourish, so have the avenues available…” The Brewers Journal, Sep/Oct 2015
few years ago when we heard the first whispers amongst our craft
brewing friends here in the UK about their desire to can, we started out
on our own journey. Our aim was to bring them the kind of canning
machines they coveted from the US, with one proviso: The equipment had
to be specifically designed for the scale and requirements of craft (as
oppose to mass) beer production.
We did a lot of research and we discovered American Beer Equipment (ABE) and set off to their production facility in the heart of Nebraska to meet Adam Kosmicki, Director in charge of Engineering & Customer Service, to take a look around. We were impressed with what we saw and by the feedback we got from the craft brewers who use their lines. So much so, that we decided to add ABE canning lines to our range here in the UK. Adam was a great host and we’d be lying if we said that the fantastic American craft beers and burgers didn’t help to cement the relationship! On our return, we worked hard to ensure the lines are suitable for the UK market.
Since the launch, we’ve supplied and installed canning lines at 5 craft breweries in the UK, including The Harbour Brewing Co and The Wild Beer Co.
It’s been a real pleasure to build relationships with each brewing team
and learn more about their unique brands. We feel privileged to have
helped them to develop their production. We are really pleased to be
supplying another two canning lines in the very near future.
are exciting times for craft breweries in the UK and they are really
rising to meet the challenges of increased demand: to stand up and stand
out in a flourishing market in order to offer that experience which
So, is craft beer in cans cool? I think so but maybe we’re just biased!